Several times over the years, various foreigners in Liuzhou have commented on how little crime there is in the city. I always want to ask them how they have arrived at that conclusion without being able to read or understand Chinese. True, crime against foreigners is low (the occasional pick-pocketing and petty theft), but getting any idea of the incidence of crime requires an ability to read and understand the local media. Most of our perception of crime rates comes not from personal experience or hearsay from friends and colleagues, but from the media. And when you don't understand the media, it is easy to assume things don't happen.
I would say that Liuzhou has as much or as little crime as you would expect in a city of around 1,000,000 people. We have our share of thefts, fraud, car crime etc. Recently we have seen the capture of a million in counterfeit bank notes (along with the counterfeiters). From time to time, someone finds themselves beaten or even murdered, usually by friends or family as everywhere else. From time to time, the locals execute people.
A quick scan of today's paper reveals concern over the rising number of hit and run accidents, a government employee is on trial for embezzling money to feed his gambling habits, a couple of peasants in their 70s take to fighting about a disagreement over logging rights on their land and various drunken drivers get caught, including this pair who fell asleep in the fast lane of the highway. A quiet, normal day.
The occasional foreigner gets caught, too. There is one foreigner, described as being of Middle Eastern origin, serving a long sentence in Liuzhou prison, although his crime - rape - was committed in Nanning. An Australian was recently held in detention for financial irregularities over a proposed joint venture. A few have been deported, mainly for visa violations, but also one for being a drunken violent slob.
Many crimes probably go unreported. Either because they are not interesting and newsworthy enough or because they are being covered up. This could be for political reasons or because the newspapers and reporters have been bought or warned off in one way or another. Also, the Chinese press prefers to run 'good news'. Negative stories are often spiked.
Of course, we also get our share of mindless violence. Here is an example of a case which has never been reported in the Liuzhou media (although there was some mention on local bulletin boards - now removed.)
Shatang is on the northern outskirts of Liuzhou. It is really a small market town serving the local rural population and farming villages. Unemployment is high and, most of the time, groups of young men can be seen hanging around doing nothing much in particular. Same as any small Chinese town.
What marks Shatang out is that it is home to a number of higher education colleges including Guangxi Biotechnology Vocational College, Guangxi Animal Husbandry and Veterinary School and the three campuses of Liuzhou Teachers' College. Outside each college campus there are small restaurants providing simple food at student prices.
The details of this story are hard to come by due to the lack of reportage, but what follows is as told me by more than one member of staff from the various colleges. It is not verifiable to the level I would like but ...
At some time, two weeks ago, (the precise date and time are not clear) a bunch of students from the Biotechnology College were having an evening meal in one of the small restaurants. They accompanied their meal with a few bottles of beer. As students do.
Sure enough, at some stage one student, in his second year, felt the need to relieve himself. While he was doing so, one of the local lads stood beside him and claimed that the student had splashed him with urine. He said that if the student bought him a pack of cigarettes he would be willing to forget the errant urine. The student refused.
A fight broke out between the students and the local lad and his friends, leaving the urinating student dead and two of his friends in serious condition in the local hospital. The dead students major? Hospitality and Tourism.
The school is desperate to keep this quiet - those enrolment figures (i.e. income) must be kept high and this is not the kind of publicity which attracts new recruits. So nothing has appeared in the official media. Police may or not be investigating.
This is not the first time there has been trouble between town and gown. About a eighteen months ago, a couple of of local youths decided to pick on a student in a restaurant outside the Teachers' College main campus. The student in question was a PE major and a little more than they could cope with. He beat the two of them decisively. They then retreated to their villages to gather reinforcements, returning somewhat later in a minivan with a group of around ten youths.
These ten very quickly found themselves surrounded by around 100 students from the college PE department and were beaten to a pulp. The vehicle they arrived in was also damaged. When they got out of hospital, the ten arrived at the college demanding compensation for their injuries and for the damage to their vehicle. First they demanded money from the students but were seen off again. Later they turned their attention to the college authorities but were rebuffed.
Resentment lingers, but the locals are unwilling to take on the PE students again. They have earned themselves a reputation which puts off most aggressors.
Finally, let me say that occurrences like these are rare. Most of the time, Liuzhou is friendly and peaceful.
*The story was eventually reported in the local media. At the same town it was annoiubnced that the victim's family had been paid ¥140000 by the perpetrator. Quite how an unemployed villager was able to come up with cash equal to around 25 years of the average rural salary remains a mystery.
Interesting topic. Do you have any local experience with mail theft?
Nowadays none of my letters from Germany or Singapore reaches my wife, not
even by registered mail and arrival receipt. Receipts and letters also not
coming back to me, everything just disappears. No problems before until
last summer. We suspect this may be organised 'postmen' looking for
valuables in mail from abroad. She says she's not going to complain
officially fearing reprisals.
I've never heard of or experienced any problems with international mail in
Liuzhou. In fact, I've always found the service very reliable.
Thanks. So this remains a mis(t)ery. I will go through the German postal
office's formal complaint process anyway.
Negative human behavior hath no national or international boundaries.
Example Sunday October 25th at 5pm, I stood waiting for my wife by the
temporary bus terminal behind the Liuzhou museum.
The # 38 bus, jam packed as usual pulls up. All you could hear from the bus
was a screaming torrant of venom from a 40s plus woman who was pushing and
shoving a similar aged woman on the bus. The bus stopped the driver left
his seat . It began to look like a scene from the movie "Million Dollar
Baby" except the boxing ring was now a tin can excuse of a bus and where
was Clint Eastwood?
The passengers wanted to exit, but the driver had locked the rear door
which meant passengers were being sandwiched and flattened against the rear
door.
Outside the bus a crowd gathered. If this had been the US, I would
have kept a fair distance in the event of possible gun shots, but this is
China. I expected some savvy entrepreuner to start charging money for
grandstanding as the fight became more physical .
The 2 women kept fighting, the screaming grew louder , and resembled bad
Peking Opera played on some street corner in Shanghai. The bus did not
move, passengers became more agitated. The male driver was not being very
successful trying to mediate between two very angry threatening women,
after all "Hell hath no fury like a woman scorned" Wiliam Congreve
(1670-1729). Bystanders stood and watched, this was now a full fledged
fight on a bus which really rivaled fights between Everton and Liverpool
football supporters. They would have been proud of today's performance.
However, the women did not torch the bus.
Where were the police? i wondered, and what were the women fighting about?
I don't know.
My mandarin is still in its nouvelle infancy.
Time passed and "Round I," finally ended, the women took a moments pause.
The bus driver took a little initiative,and pulled the bus up to the
regular stop.The back door opened, the front door opened and then both sets
of doors closed, the screaming continued on and on.
The bus pulled away and made a left hand turn onto the main road. That's
when the poice showed up. wearing their dutiful red armbands and driving
one of those death trap silver light vans that are locally made to die and
be buried in.
However,the #38 had already "left the station!"
Bystanders pointed and jestured to the police.The local gendarme then hit
the gas peddle ,I expected the van to seperate from the engine and gear box
chasis , as it raced off ,but all components seemed to stay intact.
The only memory a cloud of billowing smoke.
O Joy of Joy!
EngChina.